I am not able to move to another location at the moment, and a move to a similar location will be at least a 30% increase in rent for an equal or smaller sized unit. Presumably you checked for location of any sensors lurking in front bumper area? There’s a picture of a 3 with no bumper in that thread showing where it is. If you look at the grey foam in front/under the sensor you can see cutouts that look like they’re showing the sensor’s field of vision. I suspect we will end up doing what you have done and whilst I like the stick on plates, I would be more concerned about their (or laminated plastic) longevity than metal ones and think yours look just as smart as stick on. The tape or stick on plates are easy to remove, just warm with a hairdryer to soften the adhesive and it comes straight off. Apply olive oil to your hair, where the tape residue is stuck. Brush through your hair with a fine-toothed comb to remove the tape residue.
Will check the tape doesn’t get all mushy in summer if it gets hot but so far, all good. Surely a waste of good beer! Walker has a very good Bond Breaker Shampoo and it can remove any excess oil and adhesive residue from the last attachment and it will not dry your skin out either. But I sold a company last year and it’s more backtracking any expenditure incurred in the sale that might have a bearing to give top my accountant, which is outside the remit of most financial software. It is a matter of last resort. They over-enforce at times, including exiting their place to go out for the day while I was moving stuff, and scolding me for having boxes in the hallway when I was moving boxes from the hallway into the apartment and had to leave them in the hallway against the wall (no tripping hazard) while I opened the door and pushed them in one-by-one. Two hundred 300 ppi scans, 8×10 to full bleed double page spreads was not an unusual day.
Please visit the Account Upgrades page for more details. If you use a saturated ink then it demands a more thorough cleaning between inkings. Or you have to remove the Nib and feed to be able to use a soft toothbrush to clean away built up ink gunk. The other 1% may entail thorough clean and the other 1% may entail nib tuning. It may not work as well, but it’ll be more satisfying. You may need to remove a bit of glue residue with a mild solvent like IPA. The car looks more nimble and almost like a smaller, better proportioned car just by losing the surround and having it flush. The radar sensor is somewhere in the nose, I recall seeing a post (maybe from the US) where someone had fitted a different plate and were having radar related warnings until they moved it again. It’s a lot of tape but I’d rather struggle to remove them (if I ever do) than have someone on, say, a motorbike get a face full of metal number plate. Let’s face it, if you bolted a canoe to the nose, it would be more subtle than the Tesla ones.
My cabinet is more of a dark off white as opposed to white. I think that periodically shaking the pen, or twisting the Converter knob to get more ink into the feed should work 90 – 98% of the time. I am waiting some time and plan to take photos if everything is the same. Same applies if you were syringe filling a Cartridge. A much simpler approach will be to buy a new bottom bracket off ebay that is the same length as your current one. If I check in the summer, it’ll be a belt and braces approach. But if I start to work a bit harder I’ll be sure to check that out. OK. Been out twice today now and the second time was specifically to check the above. So the above pic is the finished product (forgive the dirt smudge). Our typesetters used to have a sign over their work stations – “120 WPM, minimum speed limit.” There were many days that I would mount 30 or so 35mm slides on a drum in about 30-45 minutes, get that scanner set up as to the size and resolution of each image, start it going, continue with the next drum and scanner load .
As a drum scanner operator, I never would have thought of using mineral spirits, even the “odorless” variety. Even the odorless type is a problem for me. The odorless type is much slower evaporating. How much take was used ? Regarding how much tape, well I just covered the back of the plate with 2 long strips of the tape shown in my pictures. Once you chased down all the rust and are back to bare steel or converted rust, what’s the next step? You should only be painting along one edge which was hopefully tight when you pressed it down and would cause the other edge to naturally curve a bit. Even if it writes with a F line it will be very saturated, so it lays down a lot of ink. I haven’t really had a close up look at the metal ones, even though I have a spare set. For those not fancying ordering new plates, I read with interest in one of Jeremy’s posts that the factory plates are actually metal (thanks for that JH).